At exactly 5pm on the terrace, a sabre was raised, and with one clean swing the bubbles were open! That was the moment I knew Grand Hotel Fasano was going to be special.
We spent two nights at this grand old villa in Gardone Riviera, on the western shore of Lake Garda, and every hour seemed to slow down. Here is everything you need to know about the hotel, plus my tips for making the most of the lake while you are there.
The hotel
Contents
Grand Hotel Fasano began life in the 19th century as a hunting lodge for the Austrian imperial family, and it became a grand hotel in 1888 for the well-heeled travellers who flocked to the Riviera. Even the poet Gabriele D’Annunzio, who lived just up the road, was a fan of its gardens and bar. You feel that history everywhere, from the vaulted ceilings to the old black and white photographs dotted around the hotel.
The setting is the real showstopper. The butter-yellow villa sits in a 12,000 square metre private park, where palm-lined gardens run right down to the water and the old-world grandeur is still very much intact. Each morning I woke to silver light on the lake from our balcony, and that view never got old. The hotel has been in the Mayr family for three generations, and that personal touch really shows in the service.
Our stay got off to the loveliest start. Once we had checked in, we were treated to complimentary drinks and snacks on the terrace, so we could start soaking up those views over the lake straight away.
Our room
We stayed in an Executive Room with Lake View, and it was every bit as elegant as I had hoped. Refined details sit alongside modern comforts, with beautiful furnishings and some of the softest fabrics I have ever sunk into.
The real star, though, is the view. Each morning I woke to silver light on the water, and from our private balcony the lake stretched out like a blue mirror towards the horizon, and no matter what I was doing, my gaze kept drifting back to that glistening water. It is this extra sense of peace that turns a stay here into something truly unforgettable.
Eating and drinking
The dining was a highlight of our stay. On our first night we ate at Osteria Il Pescatore, where Chef Valerio Dallamano gives the aromas and specialities of the Mediterranean an international twist.
On our second night we dined at Il Fagiano, which earned its first Michelin star in November 2023 under Chef Maurizio Bufi.
The chef recommended the vegetarian tasting menu paired with cocktails, and I’m so glad we listened. Each course was beautifully crafted, and each cocktail was matched to it with real imagination.
During the day, we lingered over lunch beneath 200-year-old magnolia trees, where the orecchiette with broccoli and pecorino was simple perfection.
The 5pm sabrage ritual
And then there was the daily ritual. Every day at 5pm sharp, guests gather on the terrace for a complimentary champagne sabrage, followed by aperitivo hour as the sun dips towards the lake. Make sure you are there on time, as it is all over in one swing! It is the kind of tradition you could very easily get used to.
The spa
If you need an excuse to slow down, the AQVA SPA is it. The hotel’s wellness centre covers more than 3,500 square metres and was inspired by ancient Roman baths, with a beautiful arched indoor pool, an outdoor infinity pool, a hot tub, three saunas, two steam rooms, a Turkish bath and a well-equipped gym.
There is a lovely menu of treatments too, from aroma and chakra balancing massages to reflexology.
I had a 60-minute aroma massage, which was extremely relaxing, and my masseur was amazing. It was the perfect start to my day!
Why I recommend hiring a car
My number one tip for Lake Garda is to hire a car. Ferries are lovely, but they run to a timetable, and the lake is big, so having your own wheels gives you the freedom to go where you like, stop whenever a view catches your eye and fit far more into a day. Picking one up at the airport when you land makes it easy.
The drive itself is half the fun. The road north along the western shore hugs the water and tunnels through the cliffs, with jaw-dropping views around almost every bend. Parking can be tight in the smaller villages during peak season, so I would suggest setting off early and using the paid car parks on the edge of town rather than trying to drive into the centre.
A perfect base for exploring the lake
Gardone Riviera sits roughly halfway up the western shore, which makes Grand Hotel Fasano a brilliant base for exploring the rest of the lake. The village centre is only about 500 metres away, and there is plenty within easy reach.
- Gardone Riviera: Start on your doorstep with a visit to Il Vittoriale degli Italiani, D’Annunzio’s extraordinary hillside estate, then wander the lakeside promenade.
- Salò: Just a short drive south, with a long, elegant waterfront that is perfect for a passeggiata and an aperitivo.
- Limone sul Garda: Head north along that spectacular cliffside road to this pretty village of pastel houses and old lemon houses tumbling down to the water.
- Sirmione: At the southern tip of the lake, with its fairytale Scaligero castle, Roman ruins and cobbled lanes. Go early to beat the crowds.
- Malcesine and Riva del Garda: Easy to combine with a boat trip across the lake. Malcesine has a cable car up Monte Baldo with incredible views, while Riva sits at the very top of the lake surrounded by mountains.
After a full day out, there is nothing better than coming back to the calm of the hotel gardens and a sunset drink on the terrace.
Don’t miss a boat tour on the lake
If you do one thing during your stay, make it a boat tour. Seeing Lake Garda from the water gives you a completely different perspective, with villas and villages you would never spot from the road and mountains rising straight out of the lake.
We booked a private boat excursion through the hotel concierge, and I cannot recommend it enough. The team took care of everything, and having the boat to ourselves meant we could go at our own pace. We glided along the shore past pastel villages, and seeing the hotel from the water is honestly the best view of all.
It is worth asking the concierge about this as soon as you arrive, especially in summer, so you can pick the day and time that suits you best.
Final thoughts
Grand Hotel Fasano combines old-world grandeur with genuinely warm hospitality, wonderful dining and one of the most beautiful spas I have visited in Italy. Add in its location on the western shore and it is the ideal place to both relax and explore. Both our nights ended with pink skies over the palms and the water. Pure Italian lakes magic.
My top tips in a nutshell:
- Be on the terrace at 5pm sharp for the daily champagne sabrage.
- Hire a car so you can explore the lake’s villages and towns at your own pace.
- Use the hotel as your base and plan day trips to Salò, Limone, Sirmione and beyond.
- Book a private boat tour through the concierge early in your stay.
- Try the vegetarian tasting menu with cocktail pairing at Il Fagiano.
Have you been to Lake Garda? Let me know your favourite spots in the comments.
For more information and to book, visit Grand Hotel Fasano’s website here.
I was kindly hosted on a complimentary basis but all views, images and opinions are my own.
Leave a Reply